"Saison" is a style of beer that is far more diverse than most. These hand-crafted farmhouse ales are a specialty of southern Belgium, where they were first made in winter for drinking in summer — brewed extra strong to survive warm months without refrigeration. Among Saison producers, Fantôme is one of the best, and has an expanded repertoire that includes a "Saison" for every season. The autumn offering is distinctively woodsy, conjuring the colors and scents of turning leaves. On the palate, the beer surprises with a bracing twang of cidery acidity that balances swirling flavors of brown baking spices and roasted squash. Saisons are known for their earthy qualities and the "Automne" is no exception; it has a wild edge that is both special and strange, like a smuggled raw-milk cheese or the fragrant air of an old-growth forest.