GAYOT's Blog

by André Gayot

 

The Roquefort saga continues to unfold. The Europeans, of course, did not appreciate the last “gift” of the Bush administration: the tripling of the taxes on imported Roquefort cheese as of March 23, 2009. The background of the story is:

 

While it is legal in America to raise beef with hormones that accelerate the growth of the animals and also to “sanitize” chickens with chlorine (to prevent harmful salmonella), such procedures are forbidden in Europe. Since 1988, the European Union has banned US beef and chicken which does not comply with the European rules. Continue reading “Say Cheese!” »

by Sophie Gayot

Since L’Orangerie has closed its doors in Los Angeles, I have been looking for that perfect soufflé au chocolat. I had no luck until my recent trip to Paris. As I always do when the chef offers the dessert on his menu, I ordered one to end my dinner at Citrus Etoile.

And, oh, was I surprised! It was as good as the one from the legendary temple of haute cuisine, though a slightly different version that was almost an improvement. Did I forget to mention that the chef, Gilles Épié, was the chef at L’Orangerie some years ago? Continue reading “In Search of the Best Chocolate Soufflé Recipe” »

by André Gayot

The “sprinkler gets sprinkled” was the title of one of the first movies ever produced by the Lumière brothers credited for the invention of the cinema. A Parisian food critic has experienced the actuality of this moral and eternal story: don’t do to others what you wouldn’t want them to do to you.

 

The Paris foodie establishment is abuzz with the mishap of François Simon, known for his frequent bashing of the top chefs in a Paris newspaper. “These guys,” he contends, “think they are untouchable because of their star status. It’s healthy to debunk them off their pedestal.” However, the critic is also a strong supporter of a movement dubbed “Foodism” which aims to rejuvenate the French cuisine but so far has a hard time getting off the ground, because many say they don’t understand what “Foodism” is about. To abate the general skepticism, Simon announced in his blog that he would demonstrate the merits of “Foodism” by publicly preparing in a restaurant such a “Foodist” based meal. When the verdict was out, the media stated that there were no kudos from the public nor from the critics for Simon’s undertaking. No breakthrough yet for “Foodism” seems to be the consensus and no star for the apprentice chef. Of course, you don’t need to be a screenwriter or a director to write about films, but if you are not, maybe it’s better not to try to be one, especially if you tend to use a sword as a pen. Take it easy, François.

 

For the record, at the start of his career thirty eight years ago, Simon was an intern at the “Nouveau Guide Magazine” founded by Henri Gault, Christian Millau and I. Small world, indeed.

 

 

by Sophie Gayot

There are many things you can actually do, but being who we are, we strongly advocate for a romantic night out with the person you hold most dear. We have put together a list of Valentines restaurants that will help with romance, and many of them are offering a special Valentines menu.

For more suggestions of where to host an intimate dinner for two, consult our lists of romantic restaurants in various cities.

by André Gayot

 Now why, among all food products imported from Europe, the attack on Roquefort? Its selection by the U.S., as an effective weapon of persuasion, remains unclear. Could it be because Roquefort is such a staple of European cuisine? Then what wonderful, unsolicited publicity! Or is it due to the Penicillium roqueforti found within the cheese as a result of the fermentation of ewe’s milk? The shepherds in the French Southern mountains contend that their sheep have nothing in common with American beef, and that Roquefort is a natural antibiotic.

At any rate, buy yourself a couple pounds of Roquefort while it is (relatively) affordable.

  

Read the update on the situation.

 

 

 

Look no further! We have found them for you, at Windows Lounge, the bar at the Four Seasons Hotel at Beverly Hills. The chef, Ashley James, insists on calling them “Real Fries,” because they are made the way they should be made: from fresh quality potatoes (opposed to frozen), fried twice in vegetable oil that is thrown away every day. They only come with the grilled cheese sandwich and the beef sliders, but they were so good that I ordered more of them. The bar, which has always drawn crowds, has been redecorated. The huge marble chimney in the central room brings a touch of modernity.

by Sophie Gayot

David Myers surprised us all with his latest venture. We were anticipating the opening of Comme Ca in Costa Mesa.

Instead, we got Pizzeria Ortica which he opened last night with chef Stephan Samson, who was formerly at Valentino. Expect simple Italian fare with thin-crust pizzas, pasta and much more.

Florent Marneau of Marché Moderne, who I went to visit after, told me that “We are glad to see David coming here”—meaning that the Orange County culinary scene is climbing one step higher.

Myers has more projects in the works: Ortica in front of Sona, a catering service, and providing upscale bread to restaurants. And Comme Ca in OC will open soon.

by André Gayot

In the late 1960s, Yves Bridault, the chief editor of Le Nouveau Guide Gault-Millau that we founded with my friends, used to visit his aging mother on Sundays. Prior to ringing her bell, he would stop nearby at a small pastry shop.

 

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