Leimert Park, near Crenshaw and Leimert, is a center of African-American artistic life. The jazz scene here is thriving, especially at Fifth Street Dick's, a coffeehouse and after-hours club where local musicians and jazz superstars perform. At Harold and Belle's, where the quality of the food matches the gargantuan proportions, you can feast on fiery jambalaya, crawfish etouffée and authentic filé gumbo. Or for something a little more exotic, try the banana-stuffed chicken breast at Coley's Caribbean American Cuisine. For Sunday Gospel Brunch and star spotting, head to The Porch at House of Blues on Sunset Boulevard.