Fish Forever - Cookbook Review

The Definitive Guide to Understanding, Selecting, and Preparing Healthy, Delicious and Environmentally Sustainable Seafood

by Paul Johnson

(Wiley, 2007)

In Fish Forever, Paul Johnson discusses the future of our oceans

The days of “too many fish in the sea” — as the song goes — are over for planet Earth. With rampant overfishing, pollution and the damage wrought by aquaculture, many of the world’s most appealing fish, such as Chilean seabass, have declined to precipitously low numbers. Discerning fish lovers today aren’t just concerned about the dangers of mercury and PCBs; they’re troubled by the possibility of a future without abundance in the sea. Fish expert Paul Johnson, whose Monterey Fish Market in San Francisco has supplied the likes of Alice Waters, Michael Mina and Alain Ducasse for nearly three decades, has written a guide for those who want to buy fish responsibly, supporting the fishermen who utilize environmentally sound practices and championing oft-overlooked fish like anchovies and mackerel that are among the healthiest and most ecologically friendly seafood choices.

Fish Forever profiles 70 types of seafood — organized alphabetically — and matches each with a variety of cooking techniques, sauces and seasonings that maximizes its texture and flavor. The recipes go easy on the butter and cream, favoring instead healthy oils, citrus and herbs for lighter preparations. Johnson’s wish is that supplying foolproof recipes will encourage reluctant eaters to try unfamiliar fishes rather than sticking with household standards. Choices like pan-charred butterfish with green chutney and braised wreckfish with golden pan sauce and red pepper-saffron aioli make delicious use of these underutilized yet abundant fish. Johnson doesn’t overlook familiar fish, though, offering worldly variations like coriander-crusted tuna with hot and sweet mango salsa and sake-simmered silver salmon. With guides on how to choose fresh fish and important information for pregnant women and nursing mothers, Fish Forever provides everything you need to reap the overwhelming health benefits of fish while keeping your family and the planet safe. Now that’s quite a catch.

Reviewed by Rachel Levin

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(Updated: 09/29/11 SS)

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