Sweet Cream and Sugar Cones - Cookbook Review
90 Recipes for Making Your Own Ice Cream and Frozen Treats from Bi-Rite Creamery
by Kris Hoogerhyde, Anne Walker, Dabney Gough
(Ten Speed Press, 2012)
New combinations of ice cream flavors such as honey lavender, brown sugar, basil and balsamic strawberry have become popular at artisan ice cream parlors across the country. With Sweet Cream and Sugar Cones, featuring 90 recipes from Bi-Rite Creamery in San Francisco, you can learn to make your own unique frozen treats.
When Anne Walker and Kris Hoogerhyde opened Bi-Rite Creamery in San Francisco in 2006, they wanted to do things a little differently than most ice cream shops. Their chefs would make ice cream in small batches to ensure freshness, pack in the flavor with top-notch ingredients and be completely transparent by preparing their treats in a kitchen with large windows. Since their opening week, they have had a line out the door. They’ve now gone a step further in sharing their methods by publishing a book with their favorite recipes.
Sweet Cream and Sugar Cones features a section on the basics, including ice cream, sorbet, ice pops and cookie crumb pie crust. Tips scattered throughout this section work well for solving mistakes that may arise while following the recipes. One such tip that helped us, was how to save your ice cream base if it is heated too long and “breaks,” meaning the eggs start to scramble and the base separates into curdle-like chunks.
The remaining sections are divided into ingredient groups, including vanilla, coffee and tea, caramel and herbs and spices, and the ice creams themselves are creamy and delicious. The authors also include recipes for other sweets that can be combined with ice cream, such as marshmallows, whipped cream, cookies and more.
Among the stranger-sounding recipes that are surprisingly tasty is the basil ice cream on page 176. Although basil sounds off-putting at first, the authors point out it is related to mint, and thus makes a refreshing ice cream flavor. The result is a light, creamy mix of familiar and fresh. Other delectable sounding ideas include earl grey ice cream, lime-blackberry ice pops and apple pie ice cream.
Calories and serving sizes are not listed, but the recipes have enough cream and sugar that they probably aren’t for calorie-counters anyway. It is also important to note that you need an ice cream maker to make all of the ice cream recipes in the book. If you own the machine though, this book is an excellent way to add a refreshing, cool twist to your summer kitchen.
Reviewed by Megan Donohue