"Under the Tuscan Sun" may have run its course, but that doesn't mean we're abandoning this part of Italy. Sure, we adore the graciously shabby villas, ruby wines, velvety olive oils and fields of sunflowers, but we also appreciate Tuscany for its ability to surprise. In the Tuscan Archipelago National Park off the country's West Coast, Elba — best known as the island of Napoleon's exile — is a reminder of the region's great diversity. Make yourself at home at the pretty Hotel Ilio (adjacent to a dive center with PADI instructors), and use it as a base for underwater explorations of surrounding Cape St. Andrea. In the shallows, fields of seaweed shelter local fish varieties, while farther out you can swim among coral sea fans with seahorses and explore the remains of two ancient Roman merchant ships. For those who prefer to stay close to the surface, snorkeling tours with marine biologists are also offered.