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1515 Restaurant Restaurant Review: The cuisine at 1515 Restaurant takes many of its cues from the modernist movement --- beginning with its contemporary cocktails, some of which emit plumes of smoke, the result of liquid nitrogen. And the theme carries over to chef Jonas Halstead's fanciful dishes, which zigzag from lamb sweetbreads dusted with truffle powder and wreathed with dots of almond gel, to a sous-vide New York strip steak, which he pairs with wild local mushrooms and red pepper coulis. He gives the same vacuum-packed treatment to his rack of Colorado lamb, pairing the crimson flesh with smoked apples and creamed rainbow chard. Desserts also benefit from a progressive touch: Halstead's peaches-and-cream, for example, trumpets liquid nitrogen peach ice cream inked with peach gel and bubbles of peach "caviar." But while the food is decidedly avant-garde, the two-tiered space, furbished with dark woods, weathered red brick and white tablecloths, is steeped in classic refinement, and service, too, is reminiscent of old-school civility. A thoughtfully curated, well-rounded wine list, the bottles of which are on display in the upstairs cellar, appeals to all budgets, with price tags that start in the $20 range. Of course, you can splurge as well, on a 2004 Lokoya Winery Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon that rings in at $525.