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1515 Restaurant Restaurant Review: The cuisine at 1515 Restaurant takes many of its cues from the modernist movement --- beginning with its contemporary cocktails, some of which emit plumes of smoke, the result of liquid nitrogen. And the theme carries over to chef Jonas Halstead's fanciful dishes, which zigzag from seared diver scallop with sweet and sour persimmon, ginger, compressed apple and spiced buttermilk pudding, to a sous-vide beef tenderloin, which he pairs with cauliflower au gratin, rainbow Swiss chard, bison butter and shattered blue cheese. Desserts also benefit from a progressive touch: The "Elvis" chocolate bar features peanut butter custard, banana espuma, bacon powder and pistachio. But while the food is decidedly avant-garde, the two-tiered space, furbished with dark woods, weathered red brick and white tablecloths, is steeped in classic refinement, and service, too, is reminiscent of old-school civility. A thoughtfully curated, well-rounded wine list, the bottles of which are on display in the upstairs cellar, appeals to all budgets, with price tags that start in the $20 range. Of course, you can splurge as well, on a 2004 Lokoya Winery Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon that rings in at $525.