1901 Restaurant Review
Andaz Liverpool Street
Liverpool St. 
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EC2 London UK
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| The name has changed, from Aurora to 1901, but happily little else. Certainly not the grandiose, pillared room of dramatic proportions with painted murals and an attention-grabbing, stained-glass cupola back-lit at night. The configuration is also different with large well-spaced tables around the outside and the centre occupied by a bar, with somewhat incongruously, an herb garden nestling in it. It is presumably meant to set the tone for “local.” And, of course, the cooking champions British ingredients, all impeccably sourced and attributed, and judiciously mixed with the best from elsewhere. So you might find mackerel from Dorset marinated and with a wild herb salad, and a daube of Aberdeen beef with pancetta and mashed potato. Red mullet appears unusually in a soup with saffron rouille and cheese straws; and vegetarians are treated kindly, as in potato tatin with caramelized onions, trompettes and wood sorrel. The cheese cellar reads like a cheese book and is not to be missed. The bar menu makes for excellent snacking with tapas offered like wild mushroom risotto or classic cottage pie for the unreconstructed English man. Service is charming, as it should be in a hotel aimed at a City business clientele. Serious consideration has been given to a weighty wine list. Set 2-course lunch £24, 3 courses £29. |
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