THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Accademia di Vino

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Accademia di Vino Restaurant Review:

Accademia di Vino takes an inclusive (or, if you will, academic), approach to Italian cuisine. So inclusive that the menu contains just about every category of Italian fare, from salumi and cheeses through pastas and panini to heaping entrées. As often happens in a restaurant that stretches the kitchen to cover so much ground, inconsistency seeps into the mix, here evidenced particularly by the sandwiches, which tend to be on the dry side. Still, the overall ratio of success is high. Crudi of tuna, fluke and beef, among others, are bolstered by their pickled fennel companions; salumi include whisper-thin slices of lardo and culatello, a variation on prosciutto that’s creamier and bolder-tasting than its more pedestrian cousin. Beyond that, pizzas, such as one made with robiola, black truffle pâté and pecorino, far surpass the typical wood-oven pies found around town. The heavier pastas, like a too-dense gnocchi, are skippable. Go for the simpler plates, including the spaghetti pomodoro with basil. Massive cuts of meat---a hefty veal chop and a pork chop with bacon---round out the menu. Accademia di Vino offers over 500 different kinds of wine.