 Acquerello Restaurant Review: Named for the watercolors that line the walls of this intimate former chapel, Acquerello offers cooking that is anything but delicate. Instead, come here for rich representations of Italy's finest dishes. Guests may choose a prix-fixe menu or splurge (wisely) on classic or seasonal tasting menus. If available, begin with the cauliflower budino, custard-like and subtly infused with sharp white cheddar and tender Brussels sprouts leaves, then move on to cuttlefish that's been butterflied, prepared sous vide, and later frozen so it can harden into "tagliatelle" outfitted with capers, chili flakes and lobster. Faced with the 2012 ban on foie gras, chef and co-owner (with Italian wine expert Giancarlo Paterlini) Suzette Gresham-Tognetti reinvents Acquerello's signature dish, the ridged pasta in foie gras and Marsala sauce, by manually adding duck fat to the duck livers --- the result is the same velvety decadence guests have enjoyed here for years. Tender medallions of venison served with vanilla panna cotta and huckleberry thrill with their balance of savory and sweet. Wine director Gianpaolo Paterlini's 500-bottle wine list features top-tier Italian bottles with a focus on Piemonte, as well as a number of premium California entries. For dessert, be adventurous and try the carrot panna cotta garnished with micro-celery, candied onions and white cheddar snow.
|