 THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Adour Alain Ducasse Restaurant Review: The heir to Alain Ducasse’s now-shuttered namesake restaurant in Midtown West has been built to stand the test of time. And Ducasse has even learned some lessons along the way. First: serve amid an elegant yet unobtrusive atmosphere. Set in The St. Regis Hotel, which has its own legendary spirit in the defunct Lespinasse, the David Rockwell design marries the modern and classic, with a domed ceiling, quiet dining alcoves and wine-themed trimmings like glass-etched vinery, illuminated coolers and cabernet-toned upholstery. Second: let the cuisine speak for itself. The menu is designed to allow the main ingredients to shine through graceful yet muted embellishments. (Former chef Didier Elena has now left the restaurant.) Hauntingly rich butter-poached lobster benefits from delicate companions of peas, asparagus and haricots verts. Thickly-sliced hamachi comes with a ladder of accoutrements --- avocado, apple, crouton slivers and green apple mustard --- which add a very subtle sharpness. Gnocchi resemble lightly-whipped ricotta apparitions picking up earthy, salty accents from chanterelles and fried prosciutto. And the “raspberry composition” offers a simple, layered sweet of crème brûlée atop a layer of pastry, smothered in raspberry sauce. The final lesson: focus less on pedantic service frills, like truffle-smelling and a vast pen selection for check signing. Yes, the (too-small) four-seat bar features touch-screen technology where patrons can bring up enough information to get a degree in their favorite grape, but that’s more of a gimmick than a frill. Perhaps the ultimate sign of restraint is the fact that there’s no cheese trolley, despite a fine selection, and an abbreviated version of the wine list (a listing of 600 out of the 1,800) is presented unless the full treatment is requested. We hope Ducasse sticks with this right place-right time formula.
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