Agape Substance Restaurant Review
66, rue Mazarine
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75006 Paris France
01 43 29 33 83
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Agape Substance Restaurant is one of our 2012
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This is the third restaurant of Laurent Lapaire, after L’Agapé and L’Agapé Bistrot. Twenty seats surround a big counter; a few tables for two persons are on one side of the room, and there’s an open kitchen at the rear. The walls and ceiling are covered with mirrors and the floor is done in clear oak, while the space is illuminated by neon. Young chef David Toutain, who honed his skills with Alain Passard and Marc Veyrat, is responsible for the creative cuisine, relevant to the seasons and the mood of the day. Products hail from top suppliers, notably the meat from Hugo Desnoyers, one of the best butchers in Paris. On the menu, suggestions surprise by their minimalism, with the sole name of the cooked product: monkfish, hermit crab, chanterelle, veal, chocolate. Thereby the monkfish is associated with a spelt risotto and a tonka bean emulsion. Hermit crab is crumbled, enhanced by pink grapefruit and a brown shrimp and carrot consommé. The chanterelle is magnified with hazelnut, oxalis and a sauce based on benoite urbaine, which is a clove-flavored plant. As for the veal, the meat is grilled on the top and medium-rare inside, marinated with black olive. Chocolate is prepared in several textures and varieties, at once crunchy, soft and liquid, milky, white and black. These dishes are original and often delightful but scanty, served in small portions. Wine pairings are suggested via iPad.
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