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Alain Passard -- L'Arpège Restaurant Review: When the Mad Cow crisis swept the world, Alain Passard made a crucial choice: he would eliminate the meat from his menu and devote all his talent and skills to vegetables, going as far as producing them himself. He decided to grow peas, green beans and other garden vegetables in order to cook them as fresh as possible. This resulted in an artistic, creative and elitist cuisine. The great meat scare is more or less forgotten and after his tout légµme period (absolute vegetarian era), Passard has returned to fowl, squab and shellfish which he cooks wonderfully as always. However, his treatment of the veggies remain a work of art and you'll hardly find anywhere a better beet exalted by a 12-year-old Modena vinegar, or a garden velouté of course, without a meat or fish stock) a puffed cream with a touch of lard. Cabbage, turnips and carrots acquire a new dimension with the rare oil of Argan while parsnips and rutabagas (also known as Swedish turnips) compose gorgeous accompaniments. Garden raviolis with their three vegetal consommés become stars rather than playing extras in the menu. The desserts are superb. The wine cellar is improving greatly.