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THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED NAMES The Albemarle Restaurant Review: What was The Grill at Brown’s Hotel has had some good chefs over the years, but it has also had its ups and downs so it’s very good news that this latest incarnation continues to prosper. The dining room retains its baronial look, though modified with lighter colours and some distinctly different, if rather strange, photographs on the walls. But the menu, with Mark Hix as consultant, and Lee Streeton in charge at the stove, really hits the mark. The set lunch and pre-theatre menu changes daily, the à la carte monthly, but the strong themes of good British cooking remain the raison d’être at all times. And whereas many restaurants pay lip service to the British local theme, the Albemarle is serious about its ingredients. Take your pick from the classic potted Morecambe Bay shrimps or Romney Marsh beetroot with goat’s cheese and wild herbs. A splendid silver trolley is in constant demand with dishes that change daily; otherwise go for roasted Cornish scallops with leeks and Cumbrian black pudding, or veal from Ireland with mushrooms from Scotland. The wine list is legendary, strong on the classics with imaginative forays into Australia. You’ll have to book for the set lunch as half of Mayfair seems to go there daily. Set lunch and pre-theatre dinner 2 courses £25, 3 courses £30.