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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Alberta Restaurant Review: With no sign out front to attract the passing traffic on Magazine Street, Alberta feels more like an exclusive private club than a hot restaurant. The well-dressed patrons fill the intimate dining room with its large windows looking out on a quiet, oak-lined avenue. One of the first new restaurants to open after Katrina, this little bistro dedicated to the finest kind of dining gave New Orleanians a brief respite from the chaotic city outside. The small, frequently changing menu might include starters of mussels topped with a generous sprinkle of saffron threads or sweetbreads bathed in roasted-garlic Marsala sauce. Classic French technique is at the core of chef Melody Pate's luxurious dishes, for example the carefully roasted chicken, served with braised greens and a chorizo vinaigrette, or a rack of lamb with cardamom demi-glace and slivers of fresh mint leaves. The chef honed her skills in the California wine country. It’s no surprise that the small wine list smartly matches the food and the menu offers interesting pairings by the glass for most dishes. In a city with its own unique culinary tradition, Alberta’s Modern American menu can feel a little generic. On the other hand, food that might seem less remarkable in other cities stands out in New Orleans for bucking the Creole tradition.