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Aldo's Ristorante Italiano Restaurant Review: Over the years, Aldo Ghaffari and various family members have established an improbable Italian dynasty in the city, the flagship of which is Aldo's Ristorante Italiano, a restaurant that does indeed speak the language but with a kind of quasi-continental flair. The dimly lit interior still suggests the building's allegedly checkered past as a roadhouse, but only gently. If there's a shortfall anywhere it's in the arena of excitement --- not that being classily comforting is without its merits. Well-worn appetizers such as escargots buon albergo and carpaccio di filetto are well-done. Pastas range from earthy rigatoni alla Siciliana to inventive, whole-wheat capelli d’angelo with grilled radicchio, arugula and mushrooms. Quaglie alla griglia in a saffron-tomato sauce occupies the culinary high ground here, but a lusty Tuscan fish stew is not to be dismissed. The wine list, appropriately invested with ultra-Italian offerings, can provide vini of the big-Barolo or Super Tuscan persuasion if called upon.