 Alex is chef Alessandro Stratta (who, once upon a time, cheffed at Renoir, an overlooked restaurant inside Mirage). At Alex, Stratta’s talents are properly promoted, his French and Italian heritage headlines. Belle Époque furnishings are as present as ever, done up in sumptuous fabrics, the Christofle silver shined high. Stratta's cuisine reflects this opulence. Knowing this, the three-course prix-fixe menu might appease some appetites: find a fricassée of escargots with sweet garlic flan and arugula purée. Stratta culls fresh diver scallops and pairs them with baby leeks, prosciutto and maitake mushrooms with brown butter. There’s no stopping the richness; Stratta keeps it coming, serving a milk-fed veal chop with broccoli purée, confit tomatoes and sweetbread-spinach cannelloni. Jenifer Fournier, also in charge of pastry at Stratta, transitions focus to her sugary line-up of flavors like a toasted vanilla brioche with butter poached apples and maple ice cream or chocolate banana beignets with caramelized peanut brittle. Stratta maps out an even more lavish spread on the tasting menu, ushering in Santa Barbara prawn “carpaccio” with osetra caviar, giant clam and celery salad; and Wagyu beef with parsnip custard and a crispy bone marrow fritter. The deft Paolo Barbieri oversees the wine cellar and its 1,600-plus selections, a generous 500 of which are allocated to French Burgundies. |
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