Alma Restaurant Review: A simple wooden storefront has but a small sign indicating its purpose, and upon entering the restaurant, most guests would be convinced they’re in the wrong location. Alma’s sparse dining room comprises a small banquette and an equally-slight bar area. Interpret this as a signal: eating here has nothing to do with the Hollywood scene or any multi-million-dollar designer décor. Alma is about the food. For snacks, guests will find chef Ari Taymor’s signature seaweed and tofu beignets, which we find a bit too salty and doughy, while crispy broccoli was oily but had a welcome crunchy texture and an accompanying umami dip. Appetizers include a relatively bland beef tartare, in addition to a duck liver purée that was unctuous but balanced by the acidic date jam on the crispy bread with which it was served. Large plates consist of orecchiette, and a funky but quite tasty aged-duck-and-pistachio sausage. Though desserts change almost nightly, diners can expect options such as buttermilk cake with blood orange and candied fennel. The wine list features producers focused on biodynamic and organic practices. Overall, Alma is exciting, but still in need of focus.
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