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Ama Ristorante at the Driftwood Restaurant Review: The Atlantic Ocean to the east and sunsets over the Shrewsbury River to the west create striking views at Ama, a seaside restaurant featuring novel and classic Italian dishes. The starter of Famous P.E.I. Mussels, redolent of charred garlic, is accompanied by crusty bread from a famed Brooklyn bakery, which is great for sopping up the heady tomato gravy that bath the tender mussels. Pasta dishes shine with the fettuccine served with white duck Bolognese, hen of the woods mushrooms and earthy black truffles. Seafood is a specialty, local and regional varieties given star status. Try the Gooseberry Cove cod, served with ribollita, classically a Tuscan vegetable soup but here a mélange of heirloom white beans and fall vegetables, and more of that Brooklyn bread to soak up the juices. The wine list is broad and well chosen, with many unfamiliar but elegant choices, and an informed sommelier can help you decide. There are no fireworks on the dessert list, but the tiramisu is satisfying.