THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED LOCATIONS Ambra
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THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED LOCATIONS Ambra Restaurant Review: Kelly Coggin and John McGarry have both cooked their way around Atlanta for a while. Joining forces, they add yet another gem to the West Side, making it grow further as a dining destination. The industrial finishes in this high-ceilinged space seem warmer than usual. Lots of light from windows make the daytime atmosphere bright and cheerful. Appetizers are huge, so may be enlisted to do lunchtime entrée duty. Navajo fry bread comes crispy and warm on a plate of hummus and ancho pepper cheese spread, paired with tangy vegetable escabeche. Coggin made her reputation on pizzas and burritos, and they’re here in their respective menu sections. For cooked dishes, nothing beats the grilled pork tenderloin, presented slightly pink as ordered, with a charro bean stew and roasted corn chow-chow scattered across the top. Crunch, contrast and context rock! We wish this wine list were better, and recognize it’s an opening gambit, but this food deserves choices that better pair with the dishes. Desserts are minimal, but pray the warm chocolate pudding cake in chocolate sauce is on tap. It doesn’t need the proffered commercial vanilla bean ice cream. It’s glorious all by itself.