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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Ambria Restaurant Review: Jeremy Kittelson, who’s cooked at some of the top dining rooms in the country, including the former Restaurant Avondale at the Westin Riverfront Resort & Spa in Avon, is now making a name for himself at Ambria, a cosmopolitan restaurant that showcases his flair for Mediterranean-influenced cuisine. Kittelson, whose bustling open kitchen delivers full-flavored, lusty dishes, is a strident follower of French technique --- but he also has a playfulness about him, along with an unwavering zeal for punctuating his dishes with spins and twists. His raw carrot salad is blotted with Gorgonzola and tossed with Spanish Marcona almonds and celery leaf pesto, and his hummus, made with roasted parsnips, is enough to make us never go back to garbanzo beans. We also recommend Kittelson's cioppino, perfumed with saffron and swamped with seafood, and his curried venison cassoulet stocked with oyster mushrooms, squash, cannellini beans and parsnips. We're also advocates of his wine list, a well-crafted, world-spanning romp that offers juice in three- and six-ounce pours, and by the half-bottle and bottle.