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Amelia's Restaurant Review: White-tablecloth Italian restaurants represent everything good about dining out. In the best of the lot, the food is substantial and comforting, but not too familiar. (Think savory eggplant rollatini with a light veil of fresh tomato sauce, as opposed to a big platter of meatballs and spaghetti in sweet red gravy.) The service is knowledgeable, but not haughty, and the mood is soft and relaxed. Amelia's is that kind of Italian restaurant, a place equally appropriate for a pre-theater or pre-proposal supper. In a college town filled with all-you-can-eat pizza and pasta joints, this establishment offers authentic dishes from Naples, Florence and points north prepared with fresh regional ingredients. Additionally, chef Andy Fass also offers frequent specials to spice up the traditional fare. Try the red snapper sautéed in a light tomato sauce or the cannelloni Florentino. House-made cheesecake is available for dessert. Lace curtains and candlelight plus a decent selection of Italian and American wines make this a place to linger.