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American Restaurant Restaurant Review: Take a trip back in time to this Northern Chinese eatery in the Wan Chai district named to attract American GIs who came through Hong Kong during the Vietnam War. Locals like to joke that the same man has been slicing the signature roast Peking duck since opening night, but there is something refreshing about this reliable dining institution in a city where change is the name of the game. Though we have been coming here for twenty years, we have yet to sample every item on the 200-plus dish menu and do fall into the happy habit of ordering favorites every time. The Peking duck may be ordered leaner if you like, but either way, the meat arrives tender under golden brown, crispy hot skin, alongside sweet hoisin sauce, crunchy leeks and cucumbers plus steaming pancakes. We also make room on the round tables for the sticky sweet chili beef, kung pao shrimp, sizzling lamb and chow la mian noodles from Shanghai made with sesame soy sauce and heaps of shiitake mushrooms, onions and peppers. Pop a few sweet donut hole-like dough balls stuffed with red bean paste before ending the meal.