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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Amerigo Restaurant Review: All hail executive chef Dan Storino, and long may he cook in the kitchens of McLean's Amerigo, a melting pot sort of restaurant that draws together the best from global kitchens. We loved everything we sampled, and wished we could sample more of everything, starting with an above-average Caesar salad redolent with garlic and Parmesan cheese and a tuna sashimi that was perfectly tender and seasoned. Other choices were equally tempting, including a crab-stuffed portobello mushroom and a breast of duck salad. Storino really gets going with his entrées, and his braised lamb shank served with a creamy polenta may be the best dish in town. Wisconsin duck, New York strip steak and Maryland crab cake further underscore his grasp of regional American cooking. The savvy patron will leave ample appetite for dessert, or desserts: a molten chocolate truffle cake and a cheesecake with kumquat marmalade deserve space in the winner's circle.