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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Amuse Restaurant Review: When his parents closed the Little Russian Café after more than fifteen years in business, Maxim Ionikh (just back from a round of European restaurant apprenticeships) opened Amuse in the same space. The spare, high-ceilinged room is romantically lit and the white-clothed tables are spaced far enough apart to ensure private conversation. The servers are crisply old-fashioned but real foodies who freely offer recommendations. So don't be shy about asking. First, an amuse-bouche of buttery codfish, lightly sautéed. Then, we recommend the satisfyingly creamy black truffle and sweet corn risotto or the seared squab breast with ripe pears and a rich pear glaze. Maxim's skill with soups and sauces is one of the main reasons for Amuse's success. On a recent visit we had unbelievably tasty wild mushroom bisque. Next, we enjoyed the pan-roasted arctic char with julienne, just-tender carrots, celery and porcinis served with a clear mushroom broth. A filet of wild Columbia River sturgeon is enhanced by a foie gras emulsion. The more substantial pan-seared Muscovy duck is served with foie gras mousse ravioli and a not-too-sweet honey-fig sauce. Desserts are rich and worth saving room for. Our favorite is the fallen chocolate cake with homemade vanilla ice cream and raspberry sauce. Granny Smith apples starred in a cinnamon-walnut parfait. Even the fruit sorbets are full and lively. A six-course tasting menu is available for $65. The wine list is solid and well priced.