THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Angelo & Maxie’s Steakhouse

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Angelo & Maxie’s Steakhouse Restaurant Review:

The retro décor concept of the original Angelo & Maxie’s in Manhattan seems even more at home in a Latin-dominated city where Deco rules. (The two-story space, connected by a spiral staircase, is sort of a cross between a 1930s Cuban sugar plantation and a nightclub of the same era.) Admittedly, the beef’s not as boldly flavored as some of the long dry-aged specimens in town, but the 38-ounce porterhouse for two, beautifully charred outside and juicy inside, is a supremely satisfying hunk of meat. And for those familiar only with Latin American steakhouses, the marinade-tenderized “Roumanian” steak---a flank cut, like a vacio de churrasco except heaped with grilled onions rather than chimichurri---will be a revelation that Miami’s many cultures aren’t as different as they sometimes seem. The steak, nearly big enough to serve as a landing strip for a small plane, is just as garlicky as the old-time kosher favorite at Sammy’s Roumanian Steak House in NYC, and is blessedly not overcooked. Starters and sides are mostly simple, solidly-crafted classics (clams casino, a tableside-prepared steak tartare, a lobster cocktail made from a whole Maine one-pounder), but include a few more modern preparations, like respectable beef negimaki rolls. The limited wine list has some good values, but most go for the famed martinis; buy a logo glass for eight bucks, and the hi-octane filling is only $5.