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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Arloi Dee Restaurant Review

: The Lumsums, the Thai-born owners of Arloi Dee, say their restaurant’s name means delicious in Thai; and that’s a good moniker for this unpromising-looking family-owned spot next to downtown’s performing-arts center. Even the names of the dishes seem to have a family theme: fish in-law, married shrimp, shrimp in blankets (just shacking up, we guess). As you can see, seafood is prominent here, including the aforementioned in-law fish, fried whole and crispy with a sweet-hot tangerine glaze. We love the explosively spiced jumping shrimp salad, too, with its smoky grilled shrimp, sweet-tart lime dressing and cool iceberg lettuce. Don’t neglect the noodle dishes, either, especially the lard nar, with its wide, soft noodles and Thai broccoli. Be warned: the food can get pretty fiery here; tender palates will like the strawberry chicken, a sweet-and-sour dish for grown-ups. And you can soothe your throbbing tongue at meal’s end with the wonderfully comforting sticky-rice confections steamed in leaves (we haven’t yet acquired the taste for the durian ice cream). Ignore the dated scarlet-and-Pepto-Bismol-pink d├ęcor and the occasionally slow service and just let Mali Lumsum cook for you.

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