In Dominique Crenn’s fanciful atelier, dishes are served bathed in dry ice fogs, atop pristine logs, and in myriad unusual presentations that feel taken from a Tolkien novel. But beneath the otherworldly showmanship is an earnest love for and dedication to the essence of rustic virgin ingredients. Oysters are lightly poached in saké-mirin beurre blanc, then placed atop tapioca pearls, saké-elderflower gelée and crème fraîche, and accented with Meyer lemon foam, tarragon and sea bean. Poached then frozen foie gras melts in the mouth, and could very well be a luscious dessert when met with balsamic gelée, a coconut-cocoa nib tuile, vanilla pudding and vadouvan-apple textures. There’s also an edible cocktail: a delicate, bite-size sphere filled with apple cider and crème de cassis. Even deceptively straightforward dishes feature rich depth and breadth of flavors. For all the restaurant's “wildness,” the interior is surprisingly simple and casual. A large rectangle of thatched bamboo on the ceiling is the only nod to the great outdoors; otherwise, the dining room touts a very clean décor, with sealed concrete floors, neutrals and soft lighting. A posh wine list offers interesting selections primarily from France but also from Spain, Italy and California.
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