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Athens on 86th Restaurant Review: Flaming saganaki, shouts of "opa!," friendly servers and jovial diners set the scene for a fun and welcoming experience. This neighborhood restaurant, in a sleepy shopping center strip, serves classic Mediterranean dishes, grilled seafood and Greek favorites. Painted murals of docked fishing boats hint that the specials of the evening will include at least one fresh catch option. A sampling of appetizers is the best way to taste the spicy feta cheese and two spreads: delicate roasted eggplant and the (Greek caviar) taramosalata. The Taste of Athens platter offers a generous opportunity to try several items, but it is a shame to pass up the braised lamb shank served over orzo or roasted leg of lamb with lemon roasted potato wedges. While the wines are not memorable, there is an adequate selection to satisfy most guests. Among desserts, however, is the tasty Effie's galactobouriko, a traditional custard-filled phyllo pastry.