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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Atlantic Restaurant Review: There's a sophisticated sense of humor at work in Spike and Charlie Gjerde's Atlantic. The oceanic theme sets us squarely beneath the waves in a multi-tiered, blue-gray dining room. In this cool aquarium setting we feast on the sea's bounty, digging into lush lobster bisque drizzled with pumpkin seed oil and meaty Riesling-sauced mussels tinged with saffron. Every dish has flair and a fillip; even sea-faring classics like coddies, Niçoise salad, and linguine with clam sauce have been updated for a chic clientele. The little plates---abundant appetizer-sized portions---are especially appealing, as is the menu's implicit invitation to build a meal on them alone. A crispy crab roll stuffed with savoy cabbage and shiitake mushrooms frolics in a sauce of ginger-spiked coconut milk. A Thai Cobb salad playfully tops layers of creamy green avocado and ruby red diced tomatoes with a heaping squiggle of olive oil-stewed squid, rosy pink and tender as can be. Service here could use a good polish, but comb the compact wine list---by glass or bottle---and you'll find hidden treasures. Do not miss the heavenly oyster stew or the house-made desserts.