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Atlantic Seafood Company Restaurant Review: This huge establishment evokes the sea from its roofline, which suggests the ocean’s movement with its frozen-in-time wave lines. The interior’s color palette fixates on seafoam green and periwinkle blue. At the entry, a guest waiting area is appointed with an undulating bench, upholstered in seafoam green. A sushi bar waits to the right of the entry, while the potables bar sits to the left, both set up with TVs to entertain sports fans. Yet all this interior detail doesn’t convey a sense of warmth. A fine light meal is the catfish fingers appetizer, with a half dozen sweet strips deep fried to an even crispness and mounded on tasty coleslaw. From the top of the list of fresh fish and seafood, one may choose not only the main item but also the preparation. North Atlantic cod is delectable baked in herbed crumbs and served with crisply cooked haricots verts and roasted small potatoes. Most desserts are made in-house, but don’t inspire; and bypass the espresso. The wine list is disappointing, especially the sparkling selections and the lack of any rosés, yet a few good choices stand out, notably the Muscadet (and the glassware is good).