 Atwood Cafe Restaurant Review: This petite, theatrical-looking dining room in the historic, Deco-style Hotel Burnham --- a favorite among State Street shoppers --- is overseen by Derek Simcik, a well-traveled chef who draws inspiration from his multicultural past in Tunisia, Japan and Germany, not to mention from his Louisiana-bred mother. Tweaked comfort food is the focus on the plate, though now it is far more adventurous than it once was. Take the rabbit scaloppine with haricots verts and fennel, for example. And the pot roast? It’s anything but ordinary. Braised Wagyu beef cheeks stand in for chuck, resulting in a full-flavored companion for whipped potatoes, braised carrots and onions. Interestingly, Simcik --- like his predecessor, Heather Terhune --- has a pastry background. It shows in finales like salty butterscotch donuts.
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