Au Cheval

Au Cheval Restaurant Review:

Brendan Sodikoff (Gilt Bar, Maude's Liquor Bar) has a hit on his hands with this small, narrow and packed to the hilt, updated diner in the West Loop neighborhood. Just be ready to loosen your belt, since the menu is far from light and vegetables are in short supply. That's not without its rewards. What's more, it's decked in exposed brick with around 30 tap beers, hip vinos and specialty cocktails destined for pairing with a five-napkin, house-made fried bologna sandwich dripping with eggy goodness. Yes, there's plenty to like. Foie gras runs rampant on the menu, even popping up with scrambled eggs and toast. Get the sticky, gingery fried chicken, too, tempering the tang with the green salad dressed in bracing sherry vinaigrette. But nothing is wrong with keeping it simple: the spot-on, two-patty burger is topped with melting cheddar and tucked into a puffy Z Baking bun.