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Skip the trip to the Lone Star state: this Wheaton pit will transport you. Casual and welcoming, cost-conscious and authentic, its messy meats have pink rings indicative of a good, slow cooking---a fact that transpires, courtesy of oak, in a custom-built red smoker in back. Supple, smoky brisket, sliced-to-order tri-tip and spicy jalapeño sausage don’t need to be plunked in vinegar-backed sauce, though it’s good enough that you’ll want to. (Besides, slices of white bread are on hand to sop up the extra.) Brooding beans, blue cheese slaw and creamy mac ‘n’ cheese play a supporting role, and a solid one at that. Desserts, ranging from cookies to flaky, fruity mini pies and lush banana pudding, make fine bedfellows.
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