THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Aster Awards

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Aster Restaurant Review:

Chef Brett Cooper’s (Outerlands) colorful approach to locally-sourced California fare illuminates this cozy corner space anchored by a communal table and a flank of svelte wooden booths. Lighter dishes include diced king salmon with toasted almond and basil in a delicate peach purée, and cucumber with cherries and coriander playfully dressed with preserved Meyer lemon. A quartet of large plates includes a savory black cod wrapped in chard leaves and pickled stems, and cubed pork shoulder with grilled broccoli in new-potato purée. A visually striking dessert lineup from pastry chef Sean Ehland (McCrady’s, Charleston) is not to be missed. Refreshing Sharlyn melon in aerated yogurt, melon sorbet and lemon balm is reminiscent of a fine Southern cocktail. Raspberries are stacked with farmer’s cheese, buckwheat and raspberry sorbet with a hint of Sichuan peppercorn. A well-curated list of new- and old-world wines is supported by seven beers by the bottle and a handful of apéritifs.