THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Citizen's Band Awards

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Citizen's Band Restaurant Review:

Occupying a stretch of Folsom better known for seedy clubs, Citizen's Band offers slightly whimsical variations on hearty diner standards, and the spot's pleasant quirkiness---occasionally goofy servers, the tiny open kitchen, radios heaped discretely around the room---feels appropriate to an operation inspired by diner culture. Here, an order of "frank and beans" consists of juicy Italian sausage with a mess of creamy butter beans flecked with pecorino shavings and oregano---a dangerously substantial appetizer. The fried poussin with mustard greens and a crumbly biscuit is a triumph, along with moist grilled sea bass with hon shimeji mushroom fritters. (A bucket of the latter could replace popcorn at movie theaters.) Simple preparations prove especially successful, as with the balanced spinach salad with a pancetta vinaigrette, halved figs and dry, raw-milk feta. Sunday suppers revolve around a stripped-down and wallet-friendly menu of basics such as spaghetti and meatballs. Though tasty, desserts such as the sour cream cheesecake with peanut butter, chocolate and caramel tend to be conceptually overblown; a bite will suffice. Citizen's Band is no gimmicky nostalgia trip---it's simply very good.