Epic Restaurant Awards

Epic Restaurant Restaurant Review:

Chef and co-owner (with his wife Melissa) Jamie Keating operates this fine dining restaurant in Columbus, Georgia, so its citizens who seek a good gastronomic experience can swear off trips to Atlanta, about an hour and a half north. Décor is rich with local art, and seating is in plush, high-backed banquettes that insulate diners from the sound of each other’s conversations. The menu is divided into "chapters" and varies depending on available raw materials, many of which are locally produced. Even the olive oil is from Georgia Olive Farms in Lakeland. Contemporary applications of popular regional ingredients include stone-ground grits in a shrimp-and-grits opener. But we opted for charcuterie that included Spain’s famous Ibérico de Bellota ham and almost went over the top in embellishments. Goat cheese two ways had a strudel and a flan, all artistically enhanced. Mains run the gamut: seafood, poultry, veal, beef and game (especially bison and venison), often with sweetbreads or foie gras in the preparation. Vegetarians will want to note the potato gnocchi. Imaginative desserts and an impressive cheese selection, along with a glass of wine from the ample dessert wine choices, make fine meal-enders. Presentation matters at Epic, and seems very art-driven, as much a delight to behold as to savor. The wine list is professional, indicating vintages, with half-bottle choices as well as plenty of options by the glass. Ask about special menus and the chef’s table.