THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Journeyman's Food + Drink Awards

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Journeyman's Food + Drink Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant & décor: Wedged between the 91 Freeway and an industrial neighborhood bisected by an abandoned rail line, The Hotel Fullerton seems an unlikely spot for a restaurant poised to challenge Orange County’s culinary sensibilities. Yet the property’s flagship venue is light years ahead of convention. A garden box-lined pathway leads to a vast space festooned with dark woods, nuanced Asian flair, and a sleek bar that’s massive but not intrusive. The space is large, but it may not be big enough to contain the talents of young executive chef Zach Geerson, who possesses the skill and passion to shift epicurean paradigms. Geerson was formerly at Tempo Urban Kitchen in Brea.

Likes: Bold, esoteric wine pairings.
Dislikes: Space could be smaller to create intimacy.

Food & Drinks: Geerson uses his seasonally changing prix-fixe menu as a template to create elevated contemporary dishes that draw inspiration from molecular gastronomy, deconstruction and experimental technique. This leads to plates that are ambitious in both composition and presentation, featuring ingredients and flavors hidden in plain sight. Mushrooms are transformed into thin, brittle sheets that overlay a colorful mélange of smoked salmon roe, asparagus and Meyer lemon. Rectangles of salmon come to the table with their top half left untouched in an ideal sashimi style. Chicken liver mousse pairs with cherry and basil and is covered with a delicate, slim slice of “umami bread.” A version of chicken “tom kha gai” with mushrooms, coconut and coriander respects its Thai traditions. Brie cheese evolves into decadent ice cream. These impressive tricks never feel self-indulgent --- all of the elements serve a purpose, each dish’s tastes create balance, and every course leaves you eager to see what comes next. Before the fun begins, we suggest settling in with a well-prepared craft cocktail, perhaps the Pushing Up Daisies, which consists of gin, elderflower, heavy cream, citrus, lavender, rose and egg white. Also recommended is the wine-pairing option, as the staff is equally determined to challenge the expected through their selections. Wines are unique with an emphasis on boutique picks or labels that hit the sweet spot between under the radar and overtly esoteric.