Kindred Awards

Kindred Restaurant Review:

Antique touches accent Kindred’s modern, renovated space, named for chef Joe Kindred, previously with Rooster’s in Charlotte. Located in an old pharmacy (the original door acts as the mantelpiece over the bar), the restaurant has an interior shaped by crisp white tiles juxtaposing exposed brick walls and hardwood floors. In the two-story establishment, the kitchen occupies the lower floor. Mismatched plates and flatware add a home-style note. The menu focuses on seasonal, eclectic small bites. Crusty outside and light inside, house-made milk bread served popover style bursts from an antique dish. For starters, we recommend the fried chicken of the woods --- not a meat, but a mushroom collected by the place’s forager. Among pastas, don’t pass up the squid ink-infused conchiglie, with North Carolina shrimp in a lemon tarragon sauce. Offerings are inventive and not traditional. Italian influences shine through in the basil gnocchi, ideal for diners with big appetites. Hamachi poke is a blend of fresh tuna, Carolina grapes and tomatoes. Can’t decide? Let the knowledgeable and enthusiastic servers recommend. Comfort desserts reign. The chocolate birthday cake is rich, with accompanying sweet cream ice cream. Coffee, sourced from nearby Summit Coffee, is presented in Japanese tea cups with a fitting milk bottle of cream. Wine and beer options are available, but the popular cocktails stand out, and include the Take Two of These and Call Me Amaro, made with Fernet-Branca, St-Germain, simple syrup and fresh lime juice.