Mozzeria Awards

Mozzeria Restaurant Review:

Mozzeria is run by owners Melody and Russell Stein, who are deaf. She oversees the front-of-house; he’s in the kitchen. Waitstaff are fluent in American Sign Language, and the artwork on the steel-gray walls is by deaf artists. But what about the food? Mozzeria’s specialty is Neapolitan-style pizza made in a 5,000-pound, imported, Italian wood-burning oven stoked with almond, oak and apple wood. There are classic pizzas (margherita, Italian sausage) and distinctly NorCal choices (duck with hoisin sauce --- but only on Fridays). Pies are thin and blistered, and lightly dressed with quality ingredients. We also like the seasonal small plates, replete with local fruits and vegetables, better than the evergreen menu of tiny meatballs, bruschetta and mozzarella di Bufala. Pastas don’t disappoint, though pumpkin ravioli on a summer menu seems a bit seasonally dated. The wine list is small but there are plenty of budget offerings and serviceable house reds and whites available by the glass. Dessert-wise, next time we’ll pass on the chocolate and dried-fruit-and-nut torte and save those calories for another slice of pizza. In a city where restaurants are often packed, dark and loud, the real bonus to Mozzeria is the atmosphere. Quiet and light-filled, it feels like a happy escape from the bustle that awaits outside.