Obicà Mozzarella Bar, Pizza e Cucina Awards

Obicà Mozzarella Bar, Pizza e Cucina Restaurant Review:

This Rome-based chain, with outlets in Los Angeles, Tokyo, Dubai and London, may emphasize mozzarella (and they do it well, particularly the truffle-laden variety), but there’s a lot more than cheese being rolled out at this Flatiron District location. Start with a selection of bruschetta (the pork n’duja variety is particularly good) or the addictive fried olives. Pizza is refreshingly thin, made in the Roman fashion and bucking the Neapolitan hegemony that is so pervasive throughout the Big Apple. Heartier dishes include a winning take on pesto with short and slender trofie pasta and a pistachio-encrusted pork chop. For dessert, don’t skip the flourless chocolate and almond cake. The wine list leans heavily on Italy and the bar whips up a mean Negroni. One word of warning: the long, high-ceilinged dining room can get loud at peak times. Also located at 590 Madison Ave., 212-355-2217.