Ortega 120 Awards

Ortega 120 Restaurant Review:

Don’t be fooled by the 120 tequilas on the menu (which accounts for the numeric part of the name), the three flat-screen TV’s above the bar, the bar stools that bear the names of regular customers, or the velvet Elvis painting. This is not a Mexican watering hole where clients come mainly to drink, then secondarily soak up the alcohol with chips and fajitas. In fact, fajitas are not even on the menu, but diners can partake of house-made dishes like guacamole, churros and even chorizo. Chef Thomas Ortega (Patina, Water Grill, Lucques) uses quality ingredients to make dishes based on the food he enjoyed growing up in Mexico City, along with Mediterranean, Asian and other influences. The tuna in his tacos de atun crudo is sushi grade, while the shells are made of wonton. Guajillo chile in the snapper sauce hits the tongue hot, then milds to work in concert with the fish, not to mask it. Ortega does offer classics like burritos, carne asada and mole, but also lamb shank birria, tilapia with sweet corn, and a satisfying chile-braised short rib accompanied by pozole risotto. The Mexican brunch menu features items like a jalapeño scramble, fried chicken Benedicto and chile relleno with sunny side up eggs. Cocktails are made with fresh products (and no sweet and sour mix), and tequila drinkers can attend classes while trying to make their way through the extensive collection, and are given journals to track their progress.