THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Perilla Awards

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Perilla Restaurant Review:

Top Chef winner Harold Dieterle has moved from the Harrison to center-stage at his first solo restaurant. Set on an unassuming side street in the West Village, the restaurant is neighborhood-y yet quietly sleek. Unlike other high-profile chefs, however, Dieterle prefers to let his food do the talking, offering up unexpected combinations while he works his magic from behind one of two conspicuous Oz-like curtains. Signature appetizers like spicy duck meatballs are smooth and tangy thanks to a quail egg holding them together, and roasted Maine sardines with black hummus, piquillo peppers and oregano vinaigrette is a taste explosion. Protein entrées, as waitstaff may refer to them, change monthly and are creatively dressed with medleys of Asian and market vegetables. They may include such dishes as roasted duck breast with yellow mung beans, lily bulb purée and kumquat-ginger glaze; and sautéed fluke with quinoa, cauliflower, snap peas and sweet-and-sour eggplant-basil sauce. Other menu staples include hanger steak and poussin, and fish such as kingfish, golden snapper and grouper. A standout side dish of faro risotto blended with Parmesan and artichoke confit could make a fine starter. The restaurant’s playful side comes through at dessert time: be sure to try the richly satisfying donuts made with fennel seed and filled with lemon cream.