THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Taylor Railworks Awards

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Taylor Railworks Restaurant Review:

Portland's Central Eastside is steadily gentrifying while staying true to its industrial roots. The same features of proximity to the central city, river and railroad that attracted businesses to this area a century ago now draw a new breed of artisan cooks and craftspeople. Taylor Railworks, as its name implies, is smack dab against the railroad tracks. (Occasional train noise won't disturb your dining pleasure.) The restaurant occupies the first floor of a renovated 1908 structure (upper floors are offices). It’s a classic design with an open kitchen, high ceilings, a bar room with tables and slightly cozier inner room. Chef Erik Van Kley, formerly of Little Bird, turns out a small, frequently changing menu that is unclassifiable and always tasty. Portions are generous. Start with the spicy calamari on bitter greens with a streak of poblano pepper sauce, or the octopus ranchero with arancini and spicy tomato sauce. Add a large plate such as the fried chicken with steamed clams and chiles in a vinegary-sweet sauce atop a bed of grated cabbage. A waffle topped with sautéed bananas, pecans and bourbon maple syrup offers a sweet ending. Cocktails are small but well-conceived. Sample the Southern Pacific, a take on a margarita but adding salt within the glass. Service is friendly and unusually attentive.