THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Vol. 94 Awards

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Vol. 94 Restaurant Review:

First-time restaurateurs have transformed a former neighborhood Thai eatery on the edge of Old Pasadena into a handsome wine bistro, with stately columns and massive chandeliers hanging from a high ceiling. Chef Phil Lee, who worked with David LeFevre at Water Grill and Wolfgang Puck at WP24, has created an interesting menu incorporating a wide range of cultural influences. Small plates include deep-fried sweetbreads --- slightly overcooked on a recent evening --- with honey and mustard dipping sauces, and roasted asparagus in brown butter sauce, topped by a poached egg. Other options include Korean-style pork belly with gochujang-honey noodles and perilla leaves turned into powder through some molecular gastronomic magic. A deftly roasted chicken is paired with a bacon-chive waffle for a nice play on an old favorite. For dessert, you can score a well composed cheese plate or opt for chocolate panna cotta or crème brûlée. The multinational wine list is reasonably priced and dominated by reds.