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424 E. Second St. (S. Central Ave.) Send to Phone
Chef David Bartnes embarks on a nose-to-tail odyssey in Little Tokyo.

Dinner Tues.-Sat.
  • Dress code: Casual

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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED B.o.s. Restaurant Review

: B.o.s. is Latin for cow, and according to restaurateur Jun Isogai and chef/partner David Bartnes it also stands for “beef,” “offal,” “sustainable,” summing up the omnivoracious concept and philosophy at this elegant, modern jewel box tucked into Little Tokyo’s Honda Plaza. The nose-to-tail menu is a lyrical paean to beef --- nearly every dish comes from some part of the cow, which is grass-fed (or Japanese Wagyu). But sustainability is no gimmick; Bartnes turns out plates that take one’s palate on a thrilling odyssey of bovine tastes and textures, surprising and delighting at nearly every turn. Asian flavors permeate the dishes, but don’t define them; this is inventive, twenty-first-century L.A. cooking. Silky tongue carpaccio comes shaved razor thin, punctuated with the freshness of pea sprouts, avocado and pickled shallots. Curried calf brain is creamy inside, panko-crispy outside; gochujang kicks up roasted bone marrow; tripe and kimchi stew exudes warm, savory comfort. Grilled miso heart is, undoubtedly, the restaurant’s cult signature selection, smoked over Japanese binchotan charcoal, rare and sliced thin, its satiny finish paired with oyster mushrooms and yuzu vinaigrette. Entrées like the Hunan braised short rib and succulent Japanese Wagyu New York strip steak also impress, and pretty desserts include chocolate pot de crème.
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