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Bacaro Restaurant Review: Chef Brian Kingsford and co-owner Jennifer Matta both formerly worked at Al Forno, famous for its paper-thin-crust pizzas, so diners can expect quality wood-grilled pies. However, what makes this riverfront restaurant stand out in its own right is its deft blending of Italian dining traditions --- salumeria, enoteca, cicchetteria --- with the liberating ease of ordering tapas off a check-box menu, sushi-style. We like the classic simplicity of noshing on sharp, slightly dry Carbonelli provolone drizzled with olive oil and paired with currant marmalade, fig jam, spiced nuts and honey; we also recommend the prosciutto di Parma served with peach slivers and olive oil on a bed of rocket. The upstairs dining room, with its views of the river, city skyline and working kitchen, is more appropriate for partaking of the regular menu. Silky veal bolognese over rigatoni and spaghettini with preserved lemons and sweet spring onions are both solid choices. The 100-plus wines on the enoteca line-up include ten different types of grappa. Finish with house-made ice cream, an assortment of filled cannoli cones or a sweet potato and praline meringue tart.