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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Backstreet Wine Salon Restaurant Review: There are two stars at this charming place: the owner and wine wonk, Jock Wulffson, and exec chef Patrice Barry. Part well-stocked wine shop and part terrific European wine bar-bistro, Backstreet is the best of both worlds. The shelves bulge with more than 200 boutique wines, while the bistro blooms with a lavish European menu that’s tweaked daily. Fare is mostly small plates: Toulouse sausage with fruit chutney and mashed potatoes is rustic bliss, and nubbins of sheep's milk cheese are positively addictive, grilled with oregano oil and served with whisper-thin cheese crisps. A handful of entrée “plats” are served nightly and might include a lovely seared ahi with lime-pepper crust and citrus butter sauce, or Australian lamb chops with chasseur sauce. Even the setting is tasty, with an old world-style classy retreat feel decorated with rich woods, marble and antiques.