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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Balaban's Restaurant Review: This Central West End institution, reopened after a change in ownership, has been freshened, the décor changed slightly, and the lighting improved. The enclosed sidewalk café, the bar and interior dining rooms hum with activity again. The café is cozy, the dining rooms a see-and-be-seen experience that’s been witness to seductions, proposals and business dinners. There’s been a lot of buzz over whether the changes are a good thing, mainly because the menu is almost completely new. The kitchen offers takes on American classics---think steaks and lamb chops, grilled scallops and grits. The execution is more than competent, and there are nice touches like house-made Worcestershire sauce and sauerkraut---not to mention brandade fritters and sautéed dandelion greens. The biggest glitches seem to occur on busy evenings, when service can get spotty. Wednesdays offer wine specials.