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Baldwin's Station Restaurant Review: The bone-rattling power of the freight train’s whistle as it trundles by is a showstopper, especially if you happen to be dining outdoors on the uncommonly pleasant deck when it rolls on through. But that’s only one of the charms of this converted train station in the heart of old Sykesville. Inside, the main dining room envelops a lively crowd in the warmth of its high brick walls and touches of Americana. The kitchen turns out such updated classics as apple cider-braised short ribs, Maryland crab cakes with sweet corn-and-tomato relish, and pumpkin ravioli, all uniformly well prepared. Owner Stewart Dearie’s wine savvy translates into a small, well-chosen list, and his love of music means an ongoing concert series that includes folk, blues and bluegrass. There's also children’s theater in the summer and fall.